These patterns have been tied by Alun Rees for you to use.

The secret of a good Czech nymph is to keep them slim.

Beige Pink Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is cream synthetic dubbing and pink seals fur dubbing mixed. The front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of pearl mylar with a shellback of light pink magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament
• Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Brown Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is hare’s ear. The front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of light brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine gold tinsel over the body. Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Cream Red Ribbed Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is cream synthetic dubbing. The front part is hare’s ear. For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
• Rib: Fine red holographic tinsel over the body and fine nylon monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Dark Olive Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is dark olive dubbing. The front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Dark Olive Hotspot Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is dark olive dubbing. A hotspot is formed with bright orange dubbing. The front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Hare’s Ear Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is hare’s ear dubbing. The front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine gold wire over the body and fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Lemon Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is a lemon or light yellow dubbing. The front part is tan synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Light Cream Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is cream synthetic dubbing. The front part is hare’s ear. A hotspot of bright pink seals fur is placed between the front and rear dubbing. For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Light Olive Hotspot Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is light olive dubbing. A hotspot is formed with bright red seals fur. The front part is tan seals fur dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overalll.
• Head: Olive tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Olive Cream Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is cream dubbing. The front part is olive seals fur dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured olive with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine gold wire overall.
• Head: Olive tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Orange Hotspot Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is a mixture of yellow and orange dubbing. A hotspot is formed from bright orange seals fur. The front part is hare’s ear dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Pink Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. Both rear and front parts are cream synthetic dubbing and pink seals fur dubbing mixed. A hotspot of bright pink seals fur is placed between the front and rear dubbing. For the back, a shellback of pink magic shrimp foil.
• Rib: Fine silver wire overall once the shellback has been tied in
• Head: Beige tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Pinky Czech Nymph

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is bright pink seals fur and the front part is hare’s ear dubbing.
• For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
• Rib: Fine monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Red Spot Caddis

• Hooks: Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
• Body: Fine lead wire underbody. The rear part is a lemon or light yellow dubbing. A hotspot is formed from bright red seals fur. The front part is tan synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
• Rib: Fine flat holographic over the rear of the body.Fine nylon monofilament overall.
• Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
• Notes
  • The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.
  • Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.