These patterns have been tied by Alun Rees for you to use.

The secret of a good Czech nymph is to keep them slim.

Beige Pink Czech Nymph

   Beige Pink Czech Nymph
Hooks:    Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14

Body:    Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is cream synthetic dubbing and pink seals fur dubbing mixed. Front part is black synthetic dubbing. For the back, initially a strip of pearl mylar with a shellback of light pink magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen

Rib:    Fine nylon monofilament

Hackle:    None    Under Wing:    None    Over Wing:    None    Cheeks:    None    Head:    Black tying silk and clear varnish    Notes    

The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

Brown Caddis
Brown Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is hare’s ear. Front part is black synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of light brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine gold tinsel over the body. Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

 

Cream Red Ribbed Czech Nymph
Cream Red-ribbed Czech Nymph
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is cream synthetic dubbing . Front part is hare’s ear.

 

For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
Rib:
Fine red holographic tinsel over the body and fine nylon monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

 

Dark Olive Czech Nymph
Dark Olive Czech Nymph
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is dark olive dubbing. Front part is black synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Dark Olive Hotspot Caddis
Dark Olive Hotspot Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is dark olive dubbing. A hotspot is formed with bright orange dubbing. Front part is black synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

 

Hare’s Ear Caddis
Hare's Ear Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is hare’s ear dubbing. Front part is black synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured black with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine gold wire over the body and fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Black tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Lemon Caddis
Lemon Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is lemon or light yellow dubbing. Front part is tan synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Light Cream Czech Nymph
Light cream Czech Nymph
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is cream synthetic dubbing . Front part is hare’s ear. A hotspot of bright pink seals fur is placed between front and rear dubbing

 

For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Light Olive Hotspot Caddis
Light Olive Hotspot Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is light olive dubbing. A hotspot is formed with bright red seals fur. Front part is tan seals fur dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overalll.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Olive tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Olive Cream Czech Nymph
Olive Cream Czech Nymph
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is cream dubbing. Front part is olive seals fur dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of olive magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured olive with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine gold wire overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Olive tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Orange Hot Spot Caddis
Orange Hotspot Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is a mixture of yellow and orange dubbing. A hotspot is formed from bright orange seals fur. Front part is hare’s ear dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

 

Pink Czech Nymph
Pink Czech Nymph
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Both rear and front parts are cream synthetic dubbing and pink seals fur dubbing mixed. A hotspot of bright pink seals fur is placed between front and rear dubbing

 

For the back, a shellback of pink magic shrimp foil.
Rib:
Fine silver wire overall once the shellback has been tied in
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Beige tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.

 

Pinky Czech Nymph
Pinky
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is bright pink seals fur and front part is hare’s ear dubbing.

 

For the back, a shellback of light brown magic shrimp foil.
Rib:
Fine monofilament overall once the shellback has been tied in
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.
Red Spot Caddis
Red Spot Caddis
Hooks:
Knapek Barbless Shrimp Hook Sizes 8, 10, 12, 14
Body:
Fine lead wire underbody. Rear part is lemon or light yellow dubbing. A hotspot is formed from bright red seals fur. Front part is tan synthetic dubbing.

 

For the back, initially a strip of brown magic shrimp foil over. Front part coloured brown with a marker pen
Rib:
Fine flat holographic over the rear of the body.Fine nylon monofilament overall.
Hackle: None
Under Wing: None
Over Wing: None
Cheeks: None
Head: Brown tying silk and clear varnish
Notes
The key to making Czech Nymphs is to pack in as much weight as possible without making the finished fly too bulky. This is achieved by winding close turns of lead wire on to the hook shank before the other materials are added.

 

Then the fur used to form the body and thorax is actually dubbed on quite thinly – just enough, to cover the turns of lead wire and not leave any gaps. The addition of a thin plastic shellback, then helps create the profile of a case-less caddis larva and also helps the nymph cut through the water.